T140 won't start

Ha the bastard won't start, there are apparently sparks and petrol and compression but it won't start. It coughs occasionally first kick, but nothing afterwards. I have checked much of the wiring, and did find a wire inverted on the coils which allowed me to get the lights working! But nothing conclusive, for some reason I thing the ignition is responsible somewhere, so have been looking at troubleshooting the Boyer Bransden ignition.

The BB ignition replaces the points with a back plate with two hall effect coils on it, a rotor with two magnets  fixed to it is fixed to the crank shaft end, and this generates signals which go to the black box which fires both coils at the same time (wasted spark), although I get a spark at the plugs thought I would take a look anyway!

If you remove the black/white wire and the brown/white wire and rub them together you should see a spark at the plugs - check!

If you move a magnet across the coils you should excite them and generate a spark - check except I had to touch the coils with the magnet to get them to fire!

I used a screwdriver to test the magnets on the rotor, and there didn't seem to be any magnetic power at all, so I removed the stator plate and the rotor and effectively very little magnetic power from the magnets! Strange it says on the Boyer site that the magnets should just about support the rotor plate when lifter with steel, mine don't! Maybe this is giving a too weak signal to the hall effect coils and not generating a signal when at speed?

The price of spare parts for the ignition is ridiculous so I am going try re magnetizing the magnets...... we'll see.

Removing the back plate gives access to the small rotor with the magnets screwed onto it.

Daytona

New O'rings and new vacuum and what a difference, I couln't make it pink at all! I think we can say we got that one!

Daytona

You can remove the throttle bodies partially to replace the o'rings

Showing half of the IVAC and throttle bodies

I haven't posted for a time, as I can't make my mind up whether to use this blog as my business update or not - I am leaning towards not....

Anyway, my Daytona has been pinking a lot lately, slightly less on SP98 fuel but still anything pulling a load below 4000 rpm, and it rattles a lot..... Talking to the virtual Triumph world the prognosis is an air leak somewhere. Either the IVAC hoses are cracked (this is a typical problem) or somewhere in the admission there is a leak.

Anyway planning a bigish trip so I wanted to get it sorted. So I stripped down the throttle bodies, and I have the o'rings on order.

In the mean time a couple of things to note, there was quite bit of oil droplets in the airbox, which is unusual never seen this before, we are not talking masses but more than usual.

The IVAC hose end pieces are cracked (at least two of them), so this maybe the problem, however am going to change the o'rings as they are ordered and are cheap anyway.

On a different subject I have now wired my USB charger port back to the battery, so I now have a readout of the battery voltage (a plus) but on the minus side the charge is on the whole time (a minus), it doesn't draw much without anything connected but enough to flatten the battery after about 5 days. Temporarily I am unplugging one of the spade connectors when the bike is parked up! What is interesting is that the voltmeter reads pretty much what you would expect around 14V when running, whereas when the thing was wired into the light circuit it was measuring between 9-11V - a very significant difference and enough to make the output derisory when on the light circuit!