I have been working on a Peugeot two stroke from 1953. The points needed changing and the clutch wasn't right.
The timing is relatively simple to do with a dial gauge giving TDC, and then working back 4.5 mms to the point at which the points are just opening! Then setting the arrow on the fly wheel to be lined up with the stator arrow and good to go. On this particular fly wheel there is no Woodruff key so just screwed up on a tapered crankshaft, the customer asked me to put a couple of drops of loctite bearing stuff on it to prevent any slipping.
The clutch is extremely light and made of bronze and steel plates, alternated on the end of the crank. The previous owner had added a bronze plate, which my customer had removed. During a test drive pre disassembly, the clutch was slipping alot so I decided to put back the additional bronze plate. So the bike ended up with 12 plates bronze and steel, which gave the clutch a much better feel and seemed to transmit the power a little better.
The timing is relatively simple to do with a dial gauge giving TDC, and then working back 4.5 mms to the point at which the points are just opening! Then setting the arrow on the fly wheel to be lined up with the stator arrow and good to go. On this particular fly wheel there is no Woodruff key so just screwed up on a tapered crankshaft, the customer asked me to put a couple of drops of loctite bearing stuff on it to prevent any slipping.
The clutch is extremely light and made of bronze and steel plates, alternated on the end of the crank. The previous owner had added a bronze plate, which my customer had removed. During a test drive pre disassembly, the clutch was slipping alot so I decided to put back the additional bronze plate. So the bike ended up with 12 plates bronze and steel, which gave the clutch a much better feel and seemed to transmit the power a little better.
No comments:
Post a Comment