I had already changed the oil and filter at 15k, so the only thing left, was to change the air filter (a pipercross) and plugs, (you should also check the valves but that will wait a bit - this winter). The bike had passed the 20k kms and I completed the service at 20434 kms.
To get at the air box, you need to remove the tank, which pivots up once the two front allen screws are removed, you can use the provided (under the seat) prop to hold the tank up while you look at the fuses, but to get at the air box you need to remove the tank completely by removing the bolt going through the rear of the tank, and then disconnecting the 2 electrical connectors and then removing the petrol quick connector by sliding up the orange/red clip to access the two black push buttons which allow the quick release connector to come away with very little spillage (none in my case).
The top of the air box has all the electrics on it including the ECU and the fuse box, but this all flips to the left hand side once the 8 self tapping screws have been removed. In order to change the plugs you need to remvoed the airbox completely, this is held on by the 6 screws going through the throttle body bell mouths, and one screw (very tight) at the front which once loosened allows the air box to slide towards the rear, there are two pipes one front left and the other rear right, which attempt to stop the air box sliding rearwards! I also disconnected a big electrical connector situated behind the air box getting in the way.
Each coil can be disconneted and then removed (pretty stiff) by pulling, however the LHS cylinder needs some pipework moving out of the way (I think it's emmissions stuff), I also need to remove the LHS small plastic cover in order to get the spark plug socket into the hole and move the multiple cables out of the way. Replacing this piece of plastic provided some entertainment getting it to fit appropriately!
With the 3 plugs changed the re-assembley went OK, apart from the plastic panel above and routing the tank overflow pipes through to behind the swinging arm.
To get at the air box, you need to remove the tank, which pivots up once the two front allen screws are removed, you can use the provided (under the seat) prop to hold the tank up while you look at the fuses, but to get at the air box you need to remove the tank completely by removing the bolt going through the rear of the tank, and then disconnecting the 2 electrical connectors and then removing the petrol quick connector by sliding up the orange/red clip to access the two black push buttons which allow the quick release connector to come away with very little spillage (none in my case).
The top of the air box has all the electrics on it including the ECU and the fuse box, but this all flips to the left hand side once the 8 self tapping screws have been removed. In order to change the plugs you need to remvoed the airbox completely, this is held on by the 6 screws going through the throttle body bell mouths, and one screw (very tight) at the front which once loosened allows the air box to slide towards the rear, there are two pipes one front left and the other rear right, which attempt to stop the air box sliding rearwards! I also disconnected a big electrical connector situated behind the air box getting in the way.
Each coil can be disconneted and then removed (pretty stiff) by pulling, however the LHS cylinder needs some pipework moving out of the way (I think it's emmissions stuff), I also need to remove the LHS small plastic cover in order to get the spark plug socket into the hole and move the multiple cables out of the way. Replacing this piece of plastic provided some entertainment getting it to fit appropriately!
With the 3 plugs changed the re-assembley went OK, apart from the plastic panel above and routing the tank overflow pipes through to behind the swinging arm.
1 comment:
Thank you my love for looking after my Street Triple!
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