T140 primary chain

Well after having tried to tighten the primary chain a number of times (about 5), I finally came to the conclusion that something strange is happening! There are wear signs in the crankcase - down the bottom and on one of the studs that hold the alternator in place.

So in order to get a better look and measure the chain I needed to remove it.
The the stator and clutch need to come off at the same time to get access. I used metric sockets to unscrew both the alternator (rotor) and the clutch centre nut after having remved the pressure plate and clutch plates, I used my home made clutch blocker and my rattle gun to remove both - no issues.

With the chain completely loose, there was play in both the clutch basket and the rotor... not normal me things. Anyway when you remove the clutch hub the rollers that form the bearing between the hub and backet fall out - there are 20! A part from a little marking on the basket grooves there was nothing untoward. So clean everything up and reassemble.

The chain measured out to be 84 links with a length of 15.75" for half length therfore 31.5 total length, which gives a pitch of 3/8" which is exactly right so the chain has not stretched at all!

T140 Primary Chain Adjustment

Primary chain on the T140, is the chain f**ked?

Daytona in Italy!

Well I have been out on a couple of trips with people from various Facebook groups to get know a few bikers and let them know that Atelier entre 2 Temps exists, anyway went to Italy for lunch on Sunday and the bike broke down about 5kms from the French border so I had to get the insurance breakdown service out to get the bike and myself home!

What happened was a tool had vibrated forward from under the passenger seat and shorted out the battery, luckily every thing seems to have been saved by a fuse, however the battery was flat so no way even to limp home. I got the bike back today and swapped out the 30amp fuse from the reg/rec and charged the battery up and all was well. The connectors from the stator to the reg/rec had got significantly hot so I renewed them at the same time. Connected up the PC and cleared all the ECU errors and away it went! Phew I thought that was going to cost me at least a new battery! I tested out the diode bridge on the rectifier and the resistance and AC output of the alternator which were all good, just lucky I guess could have been a lot worse!

FZR jetting

Just a quick note to document the change in the FZR after upping the jets to 122.5 and replacing the float bowl gaskets, also changing one of the float assemblies, as it was very loose. Anyway feedback is that there is a vaste improvement in pickup at medium throttle, and although at really high revs it is still buzzy, it is miles better,  I could maybe try a half size up - 125 again but it is good enough!

The T140 was making significant noise from the primary chain case so took it apart to find that the adjuster threads were stripped so no matter how much I adjusted it it never held the adjustment! The new one had a slightly larger diameter, so that went into the lathe to trim it down, but it is still sticking at some point and I haven't got to the bottom of it yet!

FZR 600 Jets

Upped the main jets to 122.5 from 120s, hope it makes it a bit less buzzy at the top end, also fixed a leaky fuel tap, just waiting for new float bowl gaskets to finish the job.

Daytona clutch gasket and FZR jetting

The dipstick area on the Daytona has been misting with oil, so I thought I would swap out the clutch cover gasket and the dipstick o ring. That said, I removed the fairing and removed the visible bolts (8mm), unfortunately one of the bolts is hidden behind the starter motor cover, so I had to remove the starter motor cover and the crankcase cover, thus damaging 2 gaskets! With silicone gasket cement I replaced the clutch gasket and used silicone on the other two. Doesn't seem to leak yet.

As customer bikes are slow I thought I would have a look at the FZR600 carbs and petrol leak, the leak was dealt with quickly as the petrol tap needed tweaking up, I decided to take a look at the carbs as something isn't quite right. I removed the carbs and proceeded to dismantle, nothing really to report so should I up the mains a tad....? They are 120's so I need to see who can do me some 125's..... Maybe.. I used my new ultrasonic cleaner on various bits of the FZR carbs, trying to get any crap off, we will see 

T140 won't start

Ha the bastard won't start, there are apparently sparks and petrol and compression but it won't start. It coughs occasionally first kick, but nothing afterwards. I have checked much of the wiring, and did find a wire inverted on the coils which allowed me to get the lights working! But nothing conclusive, for some reason I thing the ignition is responsible somewhere, so have been looking at troubleshooting the Boyer Bransden ignition.

The BB ignition replaces the points with a back plate with two hall effect coils on it, a rotor with two magnets  fixed to it is fixed to the crank shaft end, and this generates signals which go to the black box which fires both coils at the same time (wasted spark), although I get a spark at the plugs thought I would take a look anyway!

If you remove the black/white wire and the brown/white wire and rub them together you should see a spark at the plugs - check!

If you move a magnet across the coils you should excite them and generate a spark - check except I had to touch the coils with the magnet to get them to fire!

I used a screwdriver to test the magnets on the rotor, and there didn't seem to be any magnetic power at all, so I removed the stator plate and the rotor and effectively very little magnetic power from the magnets! Strange it says on the Boyer site that the magnets should just about support the rotor plate when lifter with steel, mine don't! Maybe this is giving a too weak signal to the hall effect coils and not generating a signal when at speed?

The price of spare parts for the ignition is ridiculous so I am going try re magnetizing the magnets...... we'll see.

Removing the back plate gives access to the small rotor with the magnets screwed onto it.