Daytona and RG

The new frame rails added back

Before

Before

After modification

The Daytona fell of it's stand! That's the second time since I've had it (11 years). The clutch lever snapped, and the front indicator pushed back into the fairing cracking it significantly. The engine cover and passenger footrest took the rest. Today I got around to seeing what could be done. I managed to superglue the fairing and clean up the other scratches with a touch up paint stick (an old one from Olly's Decathlon bike). I also touched up the black on the engine cover and rear wheel hub. All done and looks OK from a distance..... Will wait for a better fairing panel on eBay.

I finished messing with the RG frame and put things back together, lots of shag and hassle but it's back and looking better than before.

Street 20k Service

I had already changed the oil and filter at 15k, so the only thing left, was to change the air filter (a pipercross) and plugs, (you should also check the valves but that will wait a bit - this winter). The bike had passed the 20k kms and I completed the service at 20434 kms.

To get at the air box, you need to remove the tank, which pivots up once the two front allen screws are removed, you can use the provided (under the seat) prop to hold the tank up while you look at the fuses, but to get at the air box you need to remove the tank completely by removing the bolt going through the rear of the tank, and then disconnecting the 2 electrical connectors and then removing the petrol quick connector by sliding up the orange/red clip to access the two black push buttons which allow the quick release connector to come away with very little spillage (none in my case).

The top of the air box has all the electrics on it including the ECU and the fuse box, but this all flips to the left hand side once the 8 self tapping screws have been removed. In order to change the plugs you need to remvoed the airbox completely, this is held on by the 6 screws going through the throttle body bell mouths, and one screw (very tight) at the front which once loosened allows the air box to slide towards the rear, there are two pipes one front left and the other rear right, which attempt to stop the air box sliding rearwards! I also disconnected a big electrical connector situated behind the air box getting in the way.

Each coil can be disconneted and then removed (pretty stiff) by pulling, however the LHS cylinder needs some pipework moving out of the way (I think it's emmissions stuff), I also need to remove the LHS small plastic cover in order to get the spark plug socket into the hole and move the multiple cables out of the way. Replacing this piece of plastic provided some entertainment getting it to fit appropriately!

With the 3 plugs changed the re-assembley went OK, apart from the plastic panel above and routing the tank overflow pipes through to behind the swinging arm.

Modifying the RG frame

As you may remember I bought a second hand frame when I was getting my old one straightened. Well it wasn't a fantastic purchase as the sub frame had been altered and it wasn't at all straight, so I set about straightening it today.

I don't know if the previous owner wanted a different angle for his rear end or what, but the left hand strut had been cut and rewelded at the wrong angle, he had also removed the supporting struts from both sides, and replaced them on one side with a piece of plate, all pretty badly welded.

I cut loose the plate, and cut through the upper strut where it had been welded, I then had enough flexibility in the strut to bend it into position.

I am buying some 20x20x2 square aluminium tube which I will use to replace the diagonale struts to support the weight.

I will followup with more photos when I get the tube.

Jets & needles

42 mms of free cable length

The RG ran really well on Tuesday (best for a long time), but I still felt it could have an easier transition from off pipe to on pipe.

It was at the top clip position and I wanted to lean it off, but already at the top that was impossible due to being at the top clip position, so against my better judgement I raised the needle one clip position, it revs nicely on the stand but I really need to test again.

I also moved the FZR  needles up to richen it up, I took it for a test drive and it had really improved and the new rear BT45 has all but cured any white lining. I think I am at the best setup for the 600, although it still vibrates significantly at high revs.... Maybe jetting up more would smooth it out or balancing the carbs again....

Ledenon Track day

Went down to Ledenon for a quick track day with LPP. Good organization and as it was midweek there were only about 40 bikes. Split that into 2 groups and you finish with 9 sessions per group! 5 sessions in the morning and 4 in the pm. The last session of the morning was a 30mins session as was the last session of the day.

The RG now running 100% on all 4 was wheelying in the first 3 gears going up the hill! Showing impressive power at high rpm. Also a lot better in the midrange although still difficult to ride as it comes on pipe!

I did the long session before lunch on the 350, to give the RG a rest also to save petrol otherwise I wasn't going to make it to the end of the day! The 350 was difficult to start (pilot jets) but once running it worked really well a part from a few missed gears (think its the box not me).

The temperature was around 40 c in the sun and after each run I downed a litre of water, however I started getting cramps in the legs  after the first 2 sessions in the pm. I managed to complete another session, alternating the bikes helped as the positions are different, the last session I missed as really I didn't have enough petrol, and the body was no longer responding correctly.

Anyway packed the van and how by 19:30. An excellent day, about 65 litres of SP98, a couple of litres of oil and no issues! I can't remember when I had such a successful outing!

New rear tyre FZR

New tyre on FZR 600 130/70/18 rear tyre at 70,000kms. Bridgestone BT45.